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Food Ventures

Soup’s On

By Ann Hattes
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Soups are also an economical way to eat, whether you are using easy-to-source seasonal produce or expensive ingredients, which go much further when made into a soup.

It is often said that a cook’s reputation hinges on the quality of his or her soup. Great Homemade Soups proves that making your own soup is easy and the results are nutritious and satisfying. Add to that the fact that soups are also an economical way to eat, whether you are using easy-to-source seasonal produce or expensive ingredients, which go much further when made into a soup.

There are broths and consommés, smooth and creamy soups, hearty and wholesome soups, traditional favorites, wild and exotic soups, and chilled soups. Author Paul Gayler, executive chef at London’s prestigious hotel, The Lanesborough, has included Masterclass lessons which explain key techniques using clear step-by-step photographs. Gayler has also invited contributions from some of his favorite world-class chefs who have added their best-loved soup recipes to this tasty collection.

During Gayler’s early training as a chef in the soup section (‘the potage’) he learned that “a cook’s reputation could rise or fall according to the quality of his or her soup.” Still, he says, “making fresh soup at home isn’t rocket science.” In addition to the tried-and-tested classics in the 100 recipes there are also soups from far away including vegetable pho from Vietnam, shiitake-enoki miso noodle soup from Japan, and yam, peanut, and ginger soup from Ethiopia. Try Gayler’s white onion soup with cider and thyme or chickpea and fennel soup from Sardinia.

Good Stock: Life on a Low Simmer (Agate Publishing) recounts Sandy D’Amato’s life in the culinary world from his Midwestern roots to the Culinary Institute of America, to cooking for the 2002 Salt Lake City Olympics and the Dalai Lama, to one of the James Beard Award-winning chefs personally chosen by Julia Child to cook for her on her 80th birthday. There’s a chapter on My Dinners with Julia. The book includes more than 80 of his favorite recipes woven into the narrative.

“I want to empower all readers to discover their inner chefs by drawing from their personal taste memories and mentors,” says D’Amato. He continues, explaining his basic philosophy in cooking. “Whether preparing a grilled hot dog or a pan-roasted monkfish with paella rice, a true craftsman treats all dishes with equal love, soul, and respect. If you cook this way, you will certainly be happy with the results.” There are recipes for spiced kohlrabi soup, Schaum torte with brown butter roasted rhubarb, and dried cherry and mascarpone gingersnap cannoli, Sandy’s signature contribution to Julia Child’s 80th birthday celebration.

 

White Onion Soup with Cider and Thyme

(Courtesy of Aurum Press). Makes 4 hearty servings or 6 smaller ones.

3 & ½ tablespoons unsalted butter

1 lb. onions, coarsely chopped

2 tsp. thyme leaves, plus extra to garnish

1 garlic clove, crushed

4 cups white chicken stock

2/3 cup dry cider

Scant ½ cup single cream

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of caster sugar

 

Heat half the butter in a large pan over a gentle heat, then add the onion, thyme and garlic and cook for 15 – 20 minutes, or until the onions are softened. Pour the stock and cider over and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes more.

Transfer to a blender or use a hand-held stick blender to blitz to a smooth puree. Strain through a fine sieve and return to a clean pan. Add 1/3 cup of the cream, the salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar to help balance the acidity of the onions.

Bring to almost boiling point, then divide between 4 individual soup bowls. Drizzle with the remaining cream, sprinkle over some extra thyme leaves and serve immediately.

 

Sardinian Chickpea and Fennel Soup

(Courtesy of Aurum Press). Makes 4 hearty servings or 6 smaller ones.

2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight, then drained

2 & ½ oz. wild fennel, trimmed and coarsely chopped or 2 tsp. Fennel seeds, lightly roasted

2 & ¾ pints white chicken stock

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

Juice of ½ lemon

½ tsp. lemon zest

Few toasted fennel seeds to garnish

 

Put the soaked chickpeas in a large pan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, or until tender. Rinse in a colander under cold running water and set 4 tablespoons aside.

Put the remaining chickpeas in a clean pan, add the wild fennel or fennel seeds, cover with the stock and bring to a boil.

Meanwhile in another pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over a medium heat, then add the onion, garlic and carrot, reduce the heat to low and cook for about 10 minutes, or until softened. Add to the chickpeas in their pan and cook 20 minutes more.

Transfer to a blender or use a hand-held stick blender to blitz to a smooth puree. If the soup is too thick, add more stock or a little water. Return the soup to a clean pan. Make the lemon oil by heating the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a small pan over a low heat, then add the lemon juice and zest. Reduce the heat as low as possible and infuse for 2 minutes.

Bring the soup to a boil and add the reserved chickpeas. Divide between 4 individual soup bowls, drizzle with a little of the lemon oil, sprinkle over the toasted fennel seeds and serve immediately.

 

Ann Hattes has over 25 years experience writing about both travel and food for publications both in the US and internationally. A senior living in Wisconsin, she’s a member of the International Food, Wine and Travel Writers Association and the Midwest Travel Writers Association.

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