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Travel Logs July 2012

The Coast of County Clare, Ireland

By Jim Brennan

A hike in the Burren is an opportunity to peer over cliffs that drop into the ocean; view Mediterranean, arctic and alpine plants; and walk along miles of stone walls rising from the grasslands -- which makes it as diverse a landscape found anywhere in Europe.

v_brennan-0712The coast of County Clare, Ireland is roughly 80 miles long and can be driven in less than two hours. After spending several days there I say, who would ever want to? The region is a visual feast of lush green pastures, incredible rock formations and stark cliffs that deserve at least a full and leisurely day to absorb its splendor.

The west coast of Ireland is famous for natural beauty, and County Clare is the exclamation point. The drive from Loop Head in the south to Ballyvaghan to the north is an expanse of jaw-dropping scenery and a destination for outdoor enthusiasts who come from around the world to explore, hike, rock climb, fish, scuba dive, surf and mountain bike.

My wife and I rented a car at Shannon Airport and set out for Kilkee, the largest town on the south end of the county (population around 1,300) – only an hour's drive. We continued another 15 miles south from Kilkee to the remote southern tip at Loop Head peninsula that juts into the Shannon River estuary and joins the Atlantic Ocean. The wind seemed to blow from every direction, but it didn't distract from the spectacular views of the cliffs that spread out in front of us at Loop Head Lighthouse, which prominently anchors the peninsula. Loop Head is home to dolphin watching, scuba diving, fishing and bird watching, and is a fabulous place to hike as well.

Less than an hour's drive north is the picturesque town of Lahinch, which has the unusual distinction as a golf and surfing destination. As we drove toward town, a carpet of green covered what looked like ski moguls, with the ruins of a castle plopped in the middle. Golfers appeared to be playing impossibly close and I wondered, are the golfers in Ireland that good or are they that crazy? The beauty of the world famous Lahinch Golf Course leaves no question why it has captivated pros and recreational golfers for over a century. A clash of cultures lies within sight of the tame and manicured grounds along the coast, where surfers dot the ocean, bobbing up and down on their boards like Styrofoam in a bathtub – hundreds of them. It was the only place in the world I'd been where the staid and plaid culture of golf coexists with a sport that has a counterculture reputation.

Green pastures rose in front of us as we ventured from town. The land possessed magnetism that grew stronger the further north we traveled and before we were half-hour outside Lahinch, an irresistible allure pulled us to the side of the road to see what was on the other side of the hill. We crossed the road and walked up the path to the Cliffs of Moher, a majestic sight that transcends the visual and overwhelms the senses with an unquenchable desire to linger. At land's edge, sandstone, siltstone and shale walls shoot from the cobalt waters of the Atlantic Ocean wearing only patches of moss. We hiked to the rim of the walkway for a spectacular panoramic view high above the ocean with the Aran Islands sitting majestically in Galway Bay. The vista from O'Brien's Tower, the highest point of the cliffs, is testimony why the cliffs are one of the most visited sites in Ireland.

The tourist area is well maintained and the safety of a stone wall separates visitors from danger; however a memorial honoring those who lost their lives at the Cliffs of Moher is a reminder of a force strong enough to tilt the scale of the timid. Many adventurers ignore the "No Trespassing" sign at the south end of the walkway and meander along a narrow, unguarded path with nothing but air separating them from an abrupt 702 foot drop to the ocean below.

Less than an hour up the coast are the otherworldly vistas of The Burren. Fittingly described as a lunar landscape, the Burren consist of over 100 square miles of prehistoric limestone and rock formations that stretch as far as the eye can see. A zigzag of cliffs in a myriad of shapes and heights disappear into the ocean.

There are miles of hiking trails ranging from beginner to expert. Some areas are treacherous and unforgiving, leaving little room for distraction. The beauty is mesmerizing enough to lure anyone into a false sense of security. However, most of the region is safe if the proper precautions and common sense are exercised. The key to a safe hike is to know your limitations and never put yourself in a dangerous situation.

The Burren has a reputation for its undulating limestone topography, but there are over 600 different flowering plants as well. Flora is able to thrive because the limestone absorbs and stores heat and moisture during the warmer months, and the temperate climate from the gulfstream provides warm, moist air which is an essential element required by Mediterranean flora. A hike in the Burren is an opportunity to peer over cliffs that drop into the ocean; view Mediterranean, arctic and alpine plants; and walk along miles of stone walls rising from the grasslands – which makes it as diverse a landscape found anywhere in Europe.

We made Doolin our home base because it was convenient to The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. The town of 500 has accommodations including bed and breakfasts, guest houses and hostels. Doolin also is known as the unofficial capital of traditional Irish music, and "sessions" are held each night at the three Irish Pubs-Gus O'Connor's, McDermott's and McGann's. Don't leave town without having a Guinness, or two.

 

Jim Brennan can be found a www.Rite2Run.wordpress.com, which has a Portfolio link to his other published works. He is currently working to publish his memoir, Twenty-four Years to Boston.

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